• Maddie

Pablo Erroz - Like a quilt on a winter night, part 1

Updated: Mar 11

It sounded like a new speech. A voice raising. Not yours, not mine, but the one of a famous actor, white as he admitted: Joaquin Phoenix. It used to be Rosa Parks, in other words you and me, the ones who are nowadays hardly listening to. And I guess the social media growth is taking a part of responsibility in lowering one single voice. Indeed we can all express ourselves, but an algorithm will drive our speech or our acts (recorded) towards a blind alley. The day Rosa Parks didn't stand up to leave her seat, she actually stood up for her rights. "Determination covered my body like a quilt on a winter night".

That winter night of 2020, Joaquin Phoenix stood up from his armchair, then we are wondering how many voices will still need to be listening to in order to tell the untold stories, the ones that mainstream hasn't told yet, better said.

Who is willing to take the risk? ask Dazed magazine.

On the second week of February, the barcelonese fashion week was taking place in Barcelona. Pablo Erroz was presenting a non-seasonal collection. He once confessed of being a designer focusing on a commercial fashion, lined with ready-to-wear heritage. He also added that being commercial doesn't mean not being creative (and sustainable) "Ante todo me considero un diseñador bastante comercial, pero siempre con un punto diferencial, digamos que soy bastante de la filosofía ready to wear. Siempre digo que ser comercial y creativo a la vez no es imposible, de hecho es ahí donde me gusta jugar a encontrar el equilibrio."

Having taken the opportunity after Pablo Erroz's show to sneak in the backstage area, I could eventually make a very short interview of him and ask on his view on Sustainability. It wasn't the most appropriated moment as the changing-room space had to be emptied from his clothes for the next designer to settle his one. Pablo Erroz was I guess in a time of relief but still under rush-pressure. But he kindly accepted to be recorded and share his vision on Sustainability with me despite the situation. You can actually watch it in the video below.

After a few days, I found an interview titled with a quote from him "Fashion is each time less interesting". But after scrolling down in the article, I could see that the sentence was eventually trunked or reworded. “La moda cada vez interesa menos porque siempre es lo mismo, mismas temporadas, mismos calendarios, los mismos nombres… hay que cambiar eso y crear emociones a partir de cosas nuevas

"Fashion brings each time less interest, for being repetitive. Same seasons, same calendars, same names,... It is our duty to change this and building new emotions from new things."

In this brief, Pablo Erroz is not mentioning racism, but we could understand it in this way, as far as he is calling for alternative ways to present clothes. He is asking for time and later in the interview he added this important point: “Se presentan varias colecciones al año y a veces ves una nueva cuando no has digerido todavía la anterior. Hay que volver a un consumo más amable y cambiar los ritmos de la moda para hacer otras cosas que te hagan más especial, a ti y a la marca”.

"There are many collections to present during a single year. Most of the time you have to come across with a new one without considering an introspective time on the previous one, to digest it. There is an urge to go back to some more gentle consumerism and change fashion creation cadency in order to create something different that will make your brand special, that will be closer to the designer personality."

Consumerism is a constant question in any sort of industry that will survive from its benefits. Cinema needs "new stories". Will then civil rights movement help it to survive from an eventual economic crisis generated by watchers tired of living by proxy the same story or a single version of History? (Dazed magazine said that drama periods are less conductive to question archetypes.) Or was it a genuine and spontaneous (re)call from Joaquin Phoenix for more equality in the cinema industry?

On his side, Pablo Erroz wants to bring more emotions and slow down production for better understanding of a brand and more conscious consumerism. I believe this is also an interesting point to highlight some designers who suffered from the big-name aura economical hegemony (like with Jacquemus fast-marketing). And it might also brings out various designers to associate more one with an another, making this contributing to reducing the production of clothing.

Watch pablo Erroz show in VR:

Check Pablo Erroz non-seasonal collection here

  • Instagram
  • Facebook - Black Circle
  • YouTube - Círculo Negro